BUTTERCUP
I know it’s more efficient to say “dog-reactive Border Collie” – but I don’t like using behavior terms in a manner that labels the entire dog. Hence the more cumbersome but more appropriate “dog-reactive behavior.” Similarly, I will say “dog with aggressive behavior” rather than “aggressive dog” and on down the line with all the various dog behavior challenges I encounter.
Last week on our appointment calendar was a lovely Border Collie, Buttercup, reported to be fearful in addition to her dog-reactivity. She turned out to be the sweetest dog in the world – until we brought out my Pomeranian, Sunny, for some Counter Conditioning and Desensitization (CC&D) practice.
Here was my initial evaluation, from her consultation report: “Buttercup entered the training center and explored the room with confidence – did not appear timid or fearful. We discussed this, and Abby (Buttercup’s human) explained that she is more likely to be timid/fearful in “busy” environments. We agreed this is likely because she probably came from rural West Virginia, so is not used to city sights and sounds.
Buttercup was lovely with me – affiliative, soft body language, inviting interaction. She kept herself very busy during the entire session – exploring surfaces, finding stray treats under the refrigerator and various table legs. The only time she appeared environmentally concerned was when she heard noises from the adjoining office. I let her in to explore – she was worried about Lucy and Shirley at first (piloerected, behind the vertical) but quickly decided they were okay and then was affiliative with them as well.”
We practiced several of my favorite Operant protocols – useful adjuncts to include in a behavior modification program. Operant behaviors that a dog loves can help move the emotional brain from very worried to happy, along with a CC&D protocol. We practiced Walk Away, the 1-2-3 Pattern Game, my Nose Games, and Search/Find It. Buttercup and Abby excelled in all of these excelled in all of these! (See below for my previously promised Nose Games protocol)
According to Abby, Buttercup has had a history of good encounters with smaller dogs, so we started our CC&D practice with Sunny, my 25-pound Pomeranian as our neutral dog, entering behind a barrier at a distance of about 40 feet:
Buttercup was immediately over threshold - barking and pulling toward us. Abby began feeding chicken and we increased the distance to 50 feet. I was pleased to see that Buttercup was able to come back down from threshold and relaxed noticeably but was still pretty much on edge. She stayed below threshold if Sunny was still, but clearly got more tense and did some barks if he was in motion.
In addition to a management plan to avoid opportunities to practice the reactivity we agreed on the following protocols and commitments to help Buttercup learn to be socially appropriate with other dogs:
Behavior Modification Protocols/Minimum Commitments (more is fine/better):
1. Other Dogs: CC&D at least 3 times per week, 20 minutes or more; As we did in the training center – find a set-up where she can be below threshold, feed every time she looks at the other dog.
2. Walk Away: At least 5 times per week, 5 minutes or more per session. Start with no distractors – when she is doing well gradually increase the value of the distractor – neutral at first, then something she might want – a toy, a food bowl…
3. Pattern Games: At least 5 times per week, 5 minutes or more per session. 1-2-3- for sure, and any of the others that appeal to you.
4. Nose Games: At least 3 times per week, 10 minutes or more per session; As described in the handout provided.
5. Search/Find It/Meals: At least 5 times per week, 5 minutes or more per session. Scent work using her meals – stand and toss food bits to one side, then the other side, for her to search for – OR – Go out in the yard, scatter her entire meal in a wide area, then let her out to search for it.
Buttercup’s human is a knowledgeable and skilled canine caretaker, and I am very optimistic about her likelihood of success. She would love to do some canine sports with her girl, so my fingers are crossed.
NOSE GAMES PROTOCOL
Now, as promised earlier, here is my Nose Games protocol. And just FYI - I had a woman take this class with her little Terrier mix and her eight-year-old son... by the end of her second set of six weeks her dog could find her son hiding in the woods!
This is one of my favorite activities for dogs. Scent Work is great enrichment – both mentally and physically stimulating and tiring. We have also found that it can help a fearful dog become more confident. My Nose Games process is different from that use for the Nosework™ canine sport, which uses specific scent” detection – searching for a specific scent that the dog has learned to look for (ie: drug detection dogs). My Nose Games is a “Smell this smell, find this smell” protocol and is used to find missing persons, missing pets, etc., who each have a unique odor.
“Nose Games” involves teaching your dog to look for and find hidden objects when you ask him to. This is an exceptionally useful game as it uses lots of energy and can tire out your very active dog, plus has very practical applications as well. We start with treats, since most dogs will happily look for food. You can eventually ask him to look for hidden objects (favorite toys, your lost keys) and even hidden or missing humans!
Here’s how to start:
Step 1:
1. Have your dog sit and stay. (If he doesn’t know sit/stay, have someone hold his leash).
2. Walk six feet away, show him a treat, remind him to stay, and place the treat on the ground.
3. Return to his side (don’t let him get up yet!), turn and face the treat, then tell him “Search!” (If he won’t get up until you release him from the say “Search!” and then give your release cue.) He should run right out and eat the treat.
4. Repeat a half-dozen times.
Step 2:
1. Have your dog sit and stay.
2. Let him watch you “hide” a treat in plain view (next to a chair leg, by a waste basket, etc.).
3. Return to his side (don’t let him get up!), turn and face the treat, then tell him “Search!” He should run right out and eat the treat.
4. Repeat a half-dozen times.
Step 3:
1. Have your dog sit and stay.
2. Let him watch you hide several treats in plain view.
3. Return to his side (don’t let him get up!), turn and face the treats, rub one of the treats you’re using on a paper towel, hold the towel in front of his nose (don’t let him eat it!) and tell him “Sniff!” (Don’t worry if he doesn’t appear to sniff it.)
4. Then tell him “Search!” He should run right out and eat the treats.
5. Repeat a half-dozen times, having him “Sniff” before each set.
Step 4:
1. Have your dog sit and stay
2. Let him watch you hide a treat in a harder place (behind a chair leg, etc.)
3. Return to his side (don’t let him get up!), turn and face the treat, do “Sniff!”, then tell him “Search!” He may have more difficulty finding this treat. Don’t help him! This is where he starts learning to use his nose. If you help him, he won’t use his nose. If he truly can’t find it, reset, and hide it in an easier spot. Make sure he watches you!
4. Repeat a half-dozen times.
5. Gradually hide the treat in harder places, having “Sniff” before each set. (Note: on the ground is easiest - it's harder when you place treats on raised surfaces)
Step 5:
1. Have your dog sit and stay
2. Let him watch you hide 2-3 treats in somewhat easy places (behind a chair leg, etc.)
3. Return to his side (don’t let him get up!), turn and face the treats, then tell him “Search!” He may have more difficulty finding multiple treats. If necessary, indicate an area by spreading your arms and saying “Search here!” Don’t point to the treat! This is where he starts learning to use his nose. If you help him, he won’t use his nose. If he truly can’t find it, reset, and hide it in a slightly easier spot. Make sure he is watching you!
4. Repeat a half-dozen times.
5. Gradually hide treats in harder spots, having “Sniff” each time before you send him.
Step 6:
1. Put your dog in another room.
2. Hide 2-3 treats in somewhat easy places.
3. Bring him back to the room, have him “Sniff!” then tell him “Search!” He may have more difficulty finding multiple treats. If necessary, indicate an area by spreading your arms and saying “Search here!” Don’t point to the treat! This is where he starts learning to use his nose. If you help him, he won’t use his nose. If he truly can’t find it, reset, and hide it in a slightly easier spot. Make sure he is watching you!
4. Repeat a half-dozen times, doing “Sniff” each time.
5. Gradually hide treats in harder spots.
Step 7:
1. Generalize his “Search” behavior to other objects as you desire, starting with a favorite toy. Rub the toy on the paper towel, and proceed as your dog needs. Start back at Step 1, placing the toy in plain view and move quickly through to Step 6.
2. Then use less favorite or neutral objects. For humans, rub the human’s scent on the by having them rub it on their neck, and then have them hide – easy at first (let the dog find them in plain view, then watch them hide behind a barrier, or around a corner, then through Step 6.)
ON THE FARM – FREDDIE THE PIG LEARNS TO USE A TREAT-DISPENSING BALL
Well, okay – it wasn’t hard… If it’s about treats, Freddie can usually figure it out pretty quickly. The same way we teach dogs… put the ball on the floor with some treats underneath so he pushes it to get the treats, and before you know it he’s pushing it all over the barn aisle. And, by the way – he’s also putting his front feet up on the mounting block and on a bale of hay… and begging treats from everyone who comes in the barn! He has also learned the "scratch my tummy and I'll fall on the floor for you" trick...
MY ANIMAL COMPANION LIFE LIST
A few years ago I decided I wanted to make a life list of all the animal companions I have shared my life with over the years – at least all the ones I could remember. I am now at 146 – all the dogs are listed below - I'll do cats next blog. Then horses. Then other. Any of you have a life list? If so… I would love for you to share it here!!!
Dogs
Flag - Beagle
Rusty – Retriever mix
Taffy – Retriever mix
Pudding – Retriever mix
Schmirks – Retriever mix
Cinders – Spaniel mix
Squire Perkins – Rough Collie
Sandy Perkins - Rough Collie
Tammy - Rough Collie
Miss Fluffy Candy Perkins - Rough Collie
Moby - Rough Collie
Tempie - Dalmation
Rocky - Rough Collie
Marty - Rough Collie
Brandy – St. Bernard
Watkins Glen – Irish Setter
Yenta – Irish Setter
Jacoby – Springer Spaniel
Otis - Bloodhound
Clown’s Caper – Bull Terrier mix
Mandy – Rough Collie
Keli – Australian Kelpie
Dusty - Pomeranian
Smokie – German Shepherd mix
Josie – Terrier mix
Tucker – Cattle Dog mix
Katie – Australian Kelpie
Dubhy – Scottish Terrier
Lucy (Footloose and Fancy Free) – Cardigan Corgi
Bonnie Wee Lass – Scorgidoodle
Scooter – Pomeranian
Missy – Australian Shepherd
Kaizen (Kai) – Australian Kelpie
Sunny (Sunshine Lollipops and Rainbows) – Pomeranian
Kelpie Chaos (KC) – Australian Kelpie
And one of our many gorgeous sunsets from our farm to end this blog:
HAPPY HOWLIDAYS!!!
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
Thanks for sharing your protocols Pat they are very helpful. Freddie is so stinking cute with his ball.
Look at all those beautiful Rough Collies on your list 💗 Kimberly